A Journey to South Dakota

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A Journey to South Dakota

One day, I received a message from a friend that piqued my curiosity about South Dakota. She said, "You will be amazed at why I love this place so much!" Intrigued by her enthusiasm, I decided to embark on a journey to visit all 50 states before the Fourth of July. Indeed, I was surprised, but not in the way she had anticipated.

Arriving in the Black Hills at the End of Winter

When I arrived in the Black Hills at the end of winter, everything felt eerily quiet. The streets were clear of traffic, and there weren't many tourists around. Hotels were nearly empty, with only a few attractions closed until Memorial Day, waiting for the crowds that had yet to arrive. While off-season travel can feel a bit lonely, it also offers wonderful and unexpected experiences.

Exploring Jewel Cave

Jewel Cave is located in the southern Black Hills, not far from the iconic Mount Rushmore and the slowly emerging Crazy Horse Memorial in the southwest. This cave is one of the longest in the world, featuring calcite crystals on the walls that form bizarre shapes, reflecting flashlight beams like shattered chandeliers—beautiful and cold. Wind Cave, on the other hand, has a fascinating story of its own.

Wind Cave - The Breath of the Earth

Wind Cave got its name from the wind that blows through its entrance—the outside air pressure causes the air to flow in and out as if the earth had lungs. When leaving the cave, my kids and I struggled a bit to close the door; it felt as if the cave didn't want to stop breathing. The Lakota people call it Washun Niye, meaning "the breath of the earth," where bison and their people first appeared in the world.

The Story of Alvin McDonald

In 1881, white settlers "discovered" this cave entrance. By 1903, it had become a national park. The cave witnessed the life of Alvin McDonald, a young man who began exploring it in the late 1880s and meticulously documented everything he found. He mapped the corridors, named the rooms, and guided visitors through the cave.

Memories in the Alleys

The park manager recounts Alvin’s story with fondness. A boy with a candle and a notebook, ever eager to know what lay ahead, not overly concerned about the comfort of others. I found this incredibly relatable.

The Connection Between the Caves

Our guide revealed that visitors often ask whether Wind Cave and Jewel Cave are connected underground. Both caves are still not fully explored—many corridors remain unmapped. Perhaps they are, but then again, who knows?

Bison and the Journey of Recovery

Above Wind Cave, bison grazed in the cold. These majestic creatures were nearly driven to extinction by the end of the 19th century, dwindling from around 30 million to just about 1,000. Wind Cave National Park became one of the places for bison recovery in 1913, and it has been successful. Today, the park maintains a free-roaming herd of bison numbering between 400 and 600.

Reflections on Crazy Horse

Additionally, a friend advised me that Crazy Horse impressed him even more than Rushmore. Indeed, while Rushmore is extraordinary, Crazy Horse, still being sculpted more than seven decades after artist Korczak Ziolkowski began in 1948, carries a different weight. His family has continued his work because he built something he knew would last.

Past and History

I made my way back through Deadwood as the sun set, a town completely immersed in its own legend, with bars and historical museums lined up next to each other. Catherine Laton had advised me to bring water when visiting the Badlands, and she was right about that.

Overall, Atlas Obscura lists 64 sites in South Dakota—many places I have yet to visit. I hope to return someday to explore even more.

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